Meet Barba Werley

VISIT DALLAS: Can you share any memorable moments from your time at renowned venues like Caesars Palace, The Greenbrier and now Nuri Steakhouse that shaped your career?

BARB WERLEY: Actually, I didn't even think about wine. I was cooking. I went to college for culinary. I was working in D.C., and was in the kitchen at the Jockey Club at the Ritz Carlton, which was one of the premier places back in the day. I took over the director of purchasing position at the restaurant because the chef knew I could buy him exactly what food he wanted. At the time, nobody was ordering food or beverage and I asked the food and beverage director, “can I just do the list?” Because he didn't have time, he said “sure.” So, I started buying the wine tasting wine and putting all of this together. It was a great time in D.C. to learn as it was one of the preeminent wine drinking cities in the country – the highest per capita wine consumption. I had written about six or seven wine lists in the city, and I was invited to a mountain wine-growing symposium in California where I was pretty much the only person from the front of the house. Most attendees were vineyard managers, wine makers, or people from the agricultural side of wine. So I went to learn, and I met a gentleman named Ron Wiggins, who was there, who wrote a magazine called Restaurant Wine. He was the first person in the world to be both a Master of Wine and a Master of Sommelier. I told him about a very unique concept I was doing at the restaurant I was working with, and he said, “Why aren't you doing the master assembly a program?” I'm told him, “I don't know.” Back then there was no internet. You had to read or you had to know people. When I passed that program in ‘97 I was only the 35th American. When I started the exams in ‘92 there may have only been about 25 in the country. So I said, “Okay.” I took the intro exam in Chicago and the advanced course in Vail, Colorado. It really wasn't anything I thought about at the time. Nowadays there are a lot of people that say, “Oh, I want to be a sommelier.” A lot of people don't have a palette, and it's hard to do this if you don't have a palette. You can do it but everybody will know if you're making up stuff.

VISIT DALLAS: What first drew you to the world of wine, and how did your journey lead you to becoming a Master Sommelier?

BARB WERLEY: I have lots of stories. Caesars was great because I managed the whole program. It was nine restaurants, fourteen bars, the showroom, room service and banquets. We did a lot of wine. I had the palace court which was the first gourmet room in the city, and at that point, I was 24 years old. We had just brought in a new chef and he started BLT Steak and BLT Fish and that whole thing. We only had 82 seats but anybody who was anybody who come up there. Caesar's being so old was great, because you knew who to leave alone. I've had the pleasure of meeting three presidents. It was fun, especially in Vegas.

VISIT DALLAS: In an industry where personal connections are vital, who has been a significant mentor or influence in your professional journey?

BARB WERLEY: I don't really know if I've had one. I have done most of this on my own. When I started in the master's journey, I would call Madeline Triffon every once in a while. She was the first female to pass in America. There was a master at that point in Winchester, Virginia, but there really wasn't anybody to work with. We had to fax questions each other. I really can't say anybody influenced me but I keep in touch with a lot of people in the industry, especially the owners of wineries and people around the world.

VISIT DALLAS: How do you approach curating a wine list that balances tradition with innovation at a place like Nuri Steakhouse?

BARB WERLEY: The list is a combination of things that I've done in the past. I haven't seen one like it ever. I wrote this wine list because I got tired of people only buying by price. I get it, but that doesn't necessarily make the entrees or the experience any better. I did a list that was 53 wines and four prices. You had some bubbles half bottles, then the categories were prices. Under each of those four prices was a one liner about each of the wines. You had a mini wine list under each price and it forced diners to pick their price point and then decide on their wine. There are all sorts of tasting notes and things that might be interesting listed with each wine. I increased wine revenue 400% on that style of list, so I took some of that into our list here.

I have access to a lot of interesting older wines. The balance on this list is things that are aged well, and fit within my pricing structure. I want things to be reasonably priced. When you get to some of the names, there's only so much you can do. We’re still a business. For those that want the high end, big names, they're here. But I want to also have other demographics, age groups, etc. trying things. One of the examples is my by-the-glass pages. The left hand page has the really fun stuff that's reasonably priced and that works with the food. The other side includes the usual suspects. Then, throughout the list, there's so much wine that's reasonably priced.

VISIT DALLAS: What role does storytelling play in your wine selections, and how do you use it to enhance diners' experiences?

BARB WERLEY: I have one liners throughout the list that, little snippets that add to wine. For example my friend Paula Cornell is a fourth generation sparkling wine producer from California. Her grandfather and great grandfather were from Germany, and her father was an Auschwitz survivor that moved to Napa and made bubbles. She is continuing that legacy. Little things like that get the conversation started. I enjoy trying to keep it non-technical. Technical lists are boring to people. I have millions of stories that I can usually tell. It's keeping the list less technical and more fun, you know.

VISIT DALLAS: At Nuri Steakhouse, you’re known for pairing wines with a unique blend of culinary influences. How do you develop these pairings?

BARB WERLEY: It's all just here (points to her head). I don't know how to explain how I do it. In general I think it's from my food background. My brain just thinks that way. Everybody has their own pallet. As a sommelier, it's your secret power. It's also about reading the guest correctly.

VISIT DALLAS: Having been recognized as the “Best Sommelier in Dallas,” what do you believe sets you apart in your approach to wine and hospitality?

BARB WERLEY: I truly believe in hospitality. I'm not there to talk at the guest. I'm there to listen. I think that's becoming a dying art. A lot of the new wave sommeliers are all about themselves, telling you what they want you to drink. I'm not there to tell you what to drink; I'm there to offer ideas. I'm not there to tell you how much I know. It's not about being the smartest kid in the class that everybody in the room knows. I truly believe in hospitality, and I look at the attention to detail and making people feel comfortable. I don't think dining has to the cliché of the old fancy French restaurant with high back chairs and a white table. I think dining is about having an interaction with everything. People have lost the art of chatting.

VISIT DALLAS: What are your thoughts on the evolving landscape of women in the industry, and do you hope your career path will inspire other women looking to break into the sommelier space?

BARB WERLEY: I hope that they pay some attention to what I've been doing. I keep a low profile and I don’t burn bridges. I think right now the nature of the industry is changing. There was a time when companies would say, “We don't need a wine director or sommelier. It's just wine.” There were times when distributors had directors of education and then they went away. I think the cycle might be shifting. I think you need to know more than just trying to sell bottles of wine. You need to be a little more multi-faceted. Being humble and not running around trying to blow your own horn all the time makes a difference. I think I was the only female sommelier in Vegas when I was there, It's not an easy business. This business is hard. Trying to juggle family when you're mostly working nights and can be hard. You’re working most holidays, especially in hotels and resorts are open seven days a week. I hadn't seen my family for Christmas in 20 years. That sacrifice is what makes it hard. It takes a dedication to this industry.

VISIT DALLAS: Can you describe a time you faced gender-based challenges and how you overcame them?

BARB WERLEY: I was in D.C. working at a hotel and jealousies came into play. I was in the banquet kitchen, and then I moved to the dining room kitchen. There was a guy in there who was fine at his job. The chef came to me to do the purchasing and said, “Do you want to take over this position?” Well, this other guy wanted the job. Around this time, I left for three days because my father had a heart attack. I came back and some close coworkers told me he'd been doing whatever he could to try to get me fired behind my back because he wanted the job. I don't know if he quit or what happened to him, but I stayed. I was director of purchasing for a long time.

VISIT DALLAS: What advice would you give to women aspiring to enter the wine industry and break through its traditional barriers?

BARB WERLEY: I would say know yourself, study and be professional. You need to dress professionally. You need to speak professionally. You need to act professionally. You can still be learning but you have to be aware of that. Ask for help if you don't know numbers. Have somebody work with you, which I've had to teach myself. Take notes and listen, listen and listen. I think that's key.

VISIT DALLAS: What makes Dallas a unique place for women to pursue their career in the culinary space?

BARB WERLEY: It's a little more open to people. If you're qualified, you're qualified. I think women have a pretty good opportunity here. There are enough of us here that are in the business. I've got friends that are managers and there seemingly more women here in the industry than most places. I'm happy to talk to anybody and there's not a reason for anybody to not have a shot here in Dallas. It's more open than other places.

VISIT DALLAS: When you’re not working, where in Dallas do you find inspiration and relaxation?

BARB WERLEY: The Dallas Arboretum, especially, right now (during Dallas Blooms). Another place is the George W. Bush Presidential Center. I really want to do Christmas over there because I hear Laura does a nice celebration. I have also enjoyed the Frontiers of Flight Museum. I like to do other things like museums and the symphony.

VISIT DALLAS: Dallas is known for its culinary diversity. Which local spots do you recommend for someone seeking to explore the authentic flavors of the city?

BARB WERLEY: Ascension Coffee is one of my favorites. My favorite thing there is their golden milk latte with the extra shot of espresso. Then I also will get half of a grilled ham and cheese with the tomato soup. I went to Namo yesterday and loved it. And I love doing happy hour Truluck’s because happy hour starts at 3:00pm. They have a really good bottled wine deal from 3:00pm to 6:00pm.

VISIT DALLAS: In addition to Nuri Steakhouse, where in Dallas should someone go to grab a great glass of wine?

BARB WERLEY: Okay, a fun place I like is Mercat Bistro. I think it's lovely. The little gazebo and the outdoor patio is lovely. I like Sixty Vines. They've got an interesting selection and good snacks. Their outdoor area is great for this time of year. I think it's fabulous.